There were many highlights of our recent tour of Britain and
Ireland, but the visit to Northern Ireland will stick in my memory. Before we
went there I knew that it was now a safe place for tourists to visit, but I had
not grasped how much the conditions of life of the people who live there have
improved since the Good Friday agreement was signed 15 years ago.
My first surprise was that crossing the border from the
Republic to Northern Ireland was less noticeable than crossing from England to
Wales. If we had not been told to look out for a change in the colour of the
lines marking the edge of the road, we would not have known that our bus had
crossed the border between the Republic of Ireland and the United Kingdom.
As expected, you don’t have to drive far in Northern Ireland
before seeing evidence of division, with some communities displaying the Union
Jack and others displaying the flag of the Republic. There are also plenty of
murals, like this one, to let you know the feelings of the local communities.
However, people seem to be able to travel freely. Apparently
it has become common for Protestants living in Northern Ireland to take a drive
into the Republic. They have an incentive to do this because fuel is cheaper in
the Republic. That is probably attributable to some kind of regulatory
distortion, but it is nevertheless a hopeful sign when people put aside their
prejudices to take advantage of economic opportunities.
Ronan McNamara, our local tour guide in Derry, or
Londonderry (if you prefer), gave us a message of hope. He suggested that the
vast majority of people in Northern Ireland now just want to get on with living
their lives and leave sectarianism behind.
I was also surprised to learn that the unemployment rate in
Northern Ireland is now below the average rate for the UK. (The unemployment
rate for NI was 6.9% in June 2013, compared with 7.7% for the UK. The
corresponding figure for the Republic was 13.5%, reflecting the uneven impact
of the global financial crisis.)
We saw some symbols of hope in both Londonderry and Belfast.
The Peace Bridge is a
cycle and footbridge across the River Foyle in Derry, which opened in
June 2011, to improve access between the largely unionist 'Waterside' and the
largely nationalist 'Cityside'.
The so called ‘peace walls’, built to separate the
Protestant and Catholic communities in Belfast, are still very much in evidence
and the gates are still closed at night. But the black cab drivers take
tourists to see the murals on both sides of the walls. We were encouraged to
add our messages to one of the walls.
I was impressed by the message left by Angus from Australia,
last year.
The message I left would come as no surprise to regular
readers of this blog.
Our trip to Northern Ireland has left me with a somewhat different
perspective on the ‘troubles’ in Northern Ireland. I had to visit Belfast before
I fully appreciated that the ‘troubles’ were the last smouldering embers of
ongoing sectarian violence that has infected the British Isles since the
dissolution of the monasteries during the reign of Henry VIII. It will help me
to make the point if I present a couple more photos taken in Northern Ireland in
historical context, relating to other things we saw as we travelled around the
British Isles. My efforts in doing this
have been aided by the gruesome stories of warfare that our travel director,
Paul Murphy (from Glasgow), told us as we travelled though the peaceful
countryside of Britain and Ireland.
The ruins of Glastonbury Abbey are an appropriate place to
begin. Before Glastonbury Abbey was closed by Henry VIII in 1539 it was one of
the largest and most famous English monasteries. The dissolution of monasteries combined
revenue-raising with religious persecution as buildings and other assets were
seized by the Crown, to be sold off or leased, while monks and nuns were
dispersed.
Now, fast forward to 1623 and the reign of James I. Although
James was tolerant toward loyal Catholics, he decided that the best way to subordinate
the people of Ulster (which was the last part of Ireland resisting British
rule) was by colonising the area with Protestants from England and Scotland.
Part of this colonisation involved building the heavily fortified city of
Londonderry, so named because of investment from the City of London. The city
walls are still intact despite the siege of 1689.
Before we can discuss the siege of Derry we need to skip
past the English civil war, Oliver Cromwell’s suppression of the Royalists in
Ireland, which led to confiscation of land owned by Catholics in Ireland, and the
restoration of the monarchy which brought James II, a Catholic, to the throne. Although
James II showed some degree of religious tolerance, influential members of
Parliament became increasingly concerned about his religious beliefs and his
close ties with France. So they brought about the Glorious Revolution of 1688,
which involved Parliament inviting William of Orange to ascend the English
throne as William III of England, jointly with his wife, Mary II
of England.
I have previously suggested on this blog that the Glorious
Revolution was an important milestone in replacing tyrannical government
because it was followed by the Toleration Act of 1689, which gave formal recognition
to religious pluralism and was an important step toward giving equal rights to
followers of all religions. That is still my view, but some of my ancestors (those
from Ireland) would have had some difficulty in accepting that the revolution
brought about by William and Mary was glorious.
James II fled to Ireland and assembled his supporters to
begin undoing the Protestant land settlement. In April 1689 he presented
himself before the walls of Derry - and so the siege began. After 105 days,
however, Williamite ships allowed supplies into the starving town. William of
Orange subsequently met James at the Battle of the Boyne and defeated him. That
is why we see William III portrayed prominently in this mural in a Protestant
area of Belfast.
Our story continues as the Williamite forces went on to
control Ireland, with the exception of Limerick, which they lay siege to. The
Jacobite forces surrendered after the signing of the Treaty of Limerick, promising
religious toleration among other things, on the Treaty Stone in the photo
below.
That might have been a good place to end this story, but the
Irish parliament, representing landowners who subscribed to the (Anglican)
Church of Ireland, dishonoured the Treaty. While Catholics were not prevented from
practicing their religion, a series of penal laws prevented them from owning
land, practicing law, holding public office and bearing arms. Catholics and Calvinists
were also required to pay tithes to support the Church of Ireland.
In 1745, on the other side of the Irish sea, the Jacobites
led by Bonnie Prince Charlie attempted to take back the English throne. His
army had some initial success, but he failed to obtain the English and French support
needed to beat government forces. His army was massacred on the battlefield at
Culloden, shown below.
In the aftermath of Culloden, the Scottish Highlands were
disarmed, Gaelic was banned and the wearing of tartan was made a hanging offence
for a time.
Discrimination against Catholics began to diminish from
about 1760 onwards, in response to agrarian unrest in Ireland and the emergence
of a reforming minority, urging greater respect for individual rights, among those
in power in London. The process of granting equal rights to people of all religions
occurred gradually in a series of steps and is still not complete. The Church
of England still has links to the state and while citizens of the United Kingdom
have freedom of religion, the sovereign does not have that freedom.
One of the things I think we can learn from the history of
the British Isles is that freedom of religion and respect for individual rights
emerged as a kind of stalemate from a long series of conflicts. Those in power
gradually came to accept that it was counterproductive to try to force people
to change their beliefs or to discriminate against them because of their
beliefs. They came to accept that suppression just led to rebellion at a later
stage.
When we travelled around the British Isles we saw a great
deal of evidence that this was a very violent part of the world only a few
hundred years ago. But without visiting Northern Ireland, this evidence would have
seemed as though it had been planted for the benefit of tourists. Britain and Ireland
are, for the most part, incredibly peaceful places where the vast majority of people
are obviously willing to ‘live and let live’. It was good to learn that there are now strong grounds to hope that Northern Ireland will be able to stay on track to become as
peaceful as the rest of Ireland and Britain.